Creativity without Michelin stars : from Lucas Carton to Senderens

Three Michelin stars in twenty-eight years. Alain Senderens knows what French cuisine owes to the Michelin Guide. The reason he gave up looking for Michelin stars and started a new restaurant was that he wanted to ease the pressure that goes with Michelin stars. He also wanted to be part of the change that is occurring in fine dining by breaking with tradition. In addition, it was a challenge to demonstrate his talent in more difficult conditions. His new restaurant has kept the trappings of three-star quality while incorporating economic constraints. Dishes which were too expensive have been eliminated : it is still necessary to source the best products and the best wines, but at a reasonable price and by devising original recipes to show them to their best advantage. The cost of the average meal is now one quarter of what it had been in Senderens’ previous restaurant and there are twice as many covers. Regular customers need to be satisfied by altering the menus more frequently. Without Michelin stars, one can also produce good and original cuisine: at least, this is Senderens’ hope.